HYPERPIGMENTATION: CAUSES AND EFFECTIVE TREATMENT OPTIONS

WHAT CAUSES HYPERPIGMENTATION?

Hyperpigmentation occurs when there is an excess production of melanin. Melanin is produced by specialized cells called melanocytes, located in the basal cell layer. When the skin is exposed to certain triggers, these melanocytes can become overactive and produce excess melanin. This results in darker patches on the skin's surface—or hyperpigmentation.

The biggest triggers for hyperpigmentation include:

UV EXPOSURE

Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun is one of the leading causes of hyperpigmentation. The body produces melanin as a response to sunlight, so excess UV exposure can trigger an overproduction that appears as dark spots.

HORMONAL CHANGES

Hormones help regulate melanin production, so any hormonal changes affect the body's natural balance. Pregnancy, menopause and certain medications all affect hormone levels and can contribute to hyperpigmentation.

INFLAMMATION

Skin conditions like acne, eczema and psoriasis can cause inflammation in the skin. When the skin is inflamed, it sends signals to the melanocytes to produce more melanin. This can result in post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation where dark spots appear after the inflammation has subsided.

Luckily, acne inflammation can start to heal with products like our Clear Skin Cleanser with Benzoyl Peroxide. Recommend that clients use this powerful acne wash morning and night to break down bacteria and reduce the inflammation that could be causing their hyperpigmentation.

COMMON TYPES OF HYPERPIGMENTATION

Not every instance of hyperpigmentation is the same. Finding the right skincare for hyperpigmentation relies on identifying the specific type of hyperpigmentation your client is experiencing. Some common types include:

• Sunspots (Solar Lentigines): Also known as age spots, sunspots are dark patches on the skin that appear due to UV radiation. They typically occur on areas of the skin that receive the most sun exposure, such as the face and hands.
• Melasma: Melasma is a type of hyperpigmentation that presents as dark, patchy areas on the face. It is often referred to as the "mask of pregnancy" since it's a common occurrence in pregnant women due to hormonal changes. However, it can also occur in non-pregnant individuals.
• Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH): PIH doesn't only occur due to skin conditions. It can develop after any injury to the skin, such as cuts, burns or inflammation from skin conditions, chemical peels and laser procedures. After such treatments on patients with PIH, use our Daily Skin Clarifier to prevent discoloration.
• Freckles: Freckles are small, flat brown or red spots that appear on sun-exposed skin areas. They are often genetic and more prominent in individuals with fair skin.

DIAGNOSTIC TECHNIQUES 101

As a skincare professional, it's essential to understand the type of hyperpigmentation your client has accurately. This will help you determine the most effective treatment plan and provide targeted skincare for hyperpigmentation. Here are some common identification techniques:

• Visual Examination: This is often the first step in identifying hyperpigmentation. Observe the location, size and appearance of the dark spots to determine the type of hyperpigmentation. If needed, use a bright light or magnifying lens for a closer look.
• Wood's Lamp Examination: A Wood's lamp is a special type of light that can reveal underlying skin conditions and areas of hyperpigmentation. Healthy skin will appear blue or white under the lamp, while areas of concern may appear yellow, orange or brown.
• Dermatoscopy: A dermatoscope is a handheld device that magnifies the skin's surface, allowing for a closer look at areas of concern. This can identify patterns and textures that indicate a specific type of hyperpigmentation.

EFFECTIVE SKINCARE TREATMENTS FOR HYPERPIGMENTATION

Every type of hyperpigmentation requires a unique treatment. To find the best professional skincare for hyperpigmentation, consider these options:

TOPICAL TREATMENTS

Topical treatments are typically the first step in caring for hyperpigmentation. These skincare products for hyperpigmentation work by reducing melanin production in the cells. They often contain active ingredients that inhibit melanin synthesis and promote cell turnover. These actives help fade dark spots and even out the skin tone for a brighter complexion.

Use our Pigment Brightening Serum to fade dark spots for all skin types without the harshness of hydroquinone. Look for similar professional products that include active ingredients like:

• Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
• Retinol
• Vitamin C

TYROSINASE INHIBITORS

Tyrosinase inhibitors are compounds that block the enzyme responsible for melanin production. Skin that is more sensitive and prone to inflammation will benefit from these gentler natural ingredients. Some common Tyrosinase inhibitors that prevent uneven coloring and brighten the skin include:

• Bearberry Leaf Extract
• Kojic Acid
• Licorice Extract
• Mulberry Extract
• Glycolic Acid
• Any AHA with a concentration of 5% or higher

Our Brilliant Tone serum is the perfect Tyrosinase inhibitor solution for your treatment room. It uses licorice extract, arbutin, kojic acid, bearberry leaf extract and lactic acid to target and brighten pigmented areas deep in the cells. Plus, the addition of aloe vera will calm and soothe your clients’ skin.

CRUCIAL CONSIDERATIONS FOR SKINCARE PROFESSIONALS

Not knowing which type of hyperpigmentation your client is experiencing can lead to a treatment plan that is ineffective or even harmful. As such, it's important to thoroughly assess and identify before starting any treatments. Also, conduct proper post-treatment care to prevent further discoloration. Follow our treatment plan outline below to ensure safe and effective results.

CLEANSE

Start with a targeted cleanser that aligns with your client's skin type.

• Dryer or Aging Skin: Glycolic Facial Cleanser with 10% Glycolic Acid
• Oily or Acne-Prone Skin: Exfoliating Cleanser with Salicylic Acid

TREAT

After cleaning, apply the appropriate treatment product for your client's specific type of hyperpigmentation. If you need skincare for hyperpigmentation on aged skin, add our Accelerator Gel with 20% Alpha Hydroxy Acids to your nighttime skincare routine. The AHAs will act as Tyrosinase inhibitors, controlling melanin production. 

BALANCE

Next, use a moisturizer to hydrate the skin. This will help balance out any potential irritation or inflammation from treatments. Clients with sensitive skin prone to irritation will benefit from our Vitamin C Cream. It’s formulated to promote healing and neutralize pigmentation.

PROTECT

UV exposure can undo all the work you’ve done to correct hyperpigmentation. Recommend broad-spectrum sunscreen like our Hydrating Protection Gel with SPF 30 and advise your clients to protect their skin thoroughly from the sun.

With the right identification and skincare treatments, you can effectively control the appearance of dark spots. Conduct thorough consultations and recommend proper post-treatment care to achieve the best results. As you put your expertise and our powerful products to work, you will help your clients achieve a smooth, even complexion that boosts their confidence all day long!

Knowledge is power when it comes to achieving healthy, glowing skin. Gain access to aesthetic education and certified, professional training by becoming a GlyMed Pro.