THE LIFECYCLE OF A CHEMICAL PEEL: FROM START TO FINISH

AN INTRODUCTION TO CHEMICAL PEELS

Chemical peels are topically applied solutions that exfoliate the skin by removing its outer layers and stimulate the growth of new skin cells, resulting in a smoother and more youthful appearance. Common ingredients include alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), trichloroacetic acid (TCA), Vitamin A (retinol) and exfoliating enzymes.

These solutions can be customized to address specific skin concerns and tailored for individual clients. Peels are typically categorized by their depth of penetration:

• Very Superficial: Delicately exfoliates the outermost layer of skin.
• Superficial: Reaches further into the epidermis to reduce acne, improve hyperpigmentation and smooth fine lines and wrinkles.
• Medium: Penetrates the epidermis to help manage acne, smooth deeper wrinkles and mend scarring.
• Deep: These are only performed by a physician. They target significant scarring, sun damage and advanced signs of aging.

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF THE CHEMICAL PEEL PROCESS?

Chemical peels provide a transformative solution for individuals seeking to improve their skin's appearance. For acne-prone clients, superficial peels effectively unclog pores and reduce redness. Additionally, they smooth fine lines and create a more even skin tone, promoting a youthful glow. Medium-depth peels address more pronounced concerns, such as deeper wrinkles, scars and pigmentation issues.

THE CHEMICAL PEEL PROCEDURE

The chemical peel process consists of several steps, ensuring that the skin receives the appropriate treatment and care.

PRE-PEEL PREPARATION

Before undergoing a chemical peel process in the clinic, clients must undergo an initial consultation to assess their suitability for the treatment. Skin type, medical history and current skin concerns are all factors that must be considered before proceeding.

SELECTING A PREPPING AGENT

The prepping agent is used before the peel to ensure the peel solution properly penetrates the skin and gives optimal results. For sensitive skin, a gentle, hydrating very superficial prepping agent is recommended, while those with oily or acne-prone skin can benefit from superficial-medium agents that help reduce excess oil and unclog pores. Here are three options depending on the type of peel being completed:

• Very Superficial: GlyMed’s Lactic Astringent Prepping Agent uses lactic acid, salicylic acid and soothing aloe vera to cleanse and prepare the skin for the peel.
• Superficial: AHA Astringent Prepping Agent cleanses deep into the pores with a blend of AHAs, calming botanicals and natural Tyrosinase inhibitors.
• Superficial-Medium: Astringents No. 2, 5 and 10 each carry higher concentrations of salicylic acid to cleanse oily, acne-prone skin thoroughly.

CHOOSE THE APPROPRIATE PEEL SOLUTION

Selecting the right chemical peel type and strength is crucial for achieving the best results and ensuring client safety. Take these factors into consideration before starting the chemical peel process:

• Skin Type: The client's skin type will influence the peel's efficacy. Oily skin may respond well to peels like GlyMed’sProfessional Solution with 20% Salicylic Acid since this acid can control sebum production and clear pores. Clients with sensitive skin may benefit from very superficial peels that utilize gentler ingredients, minimizing irritation while still encouraging healthy cell turnover.
• Primary Skin Concerns: Is your client looking to control acne, reduce pigmentation or achieve a smoother texture? These factors will inform which type of peel solution is best suited to their needs.
• Chemical Peel History: If your client has undergone peels before, gather information about the types of peels used, their skin’s reaction and their overall satisfaction with the outcomes. For clients receiving a chemical peel for the first time, initiate their skin with a very superficial peel to build their tolerance while still delivering gradual improvements.

APPLY THE PEEL SOLUTION

After cleansing and prepping the skin, the peel solution is carefully applied using sterile applicators. At GlyMed Plus, we separate our peels into two categories: timed peels and layered peels. Timed peels sit on the skin for a specific period before being removed with water, while layered peels are applied layer by layer, self-neutralize and exfoliate deeply.

Our Professional Exfoliator with 30% Lactic Acid is a great example of a timed peel that targets hyperpigmentation and dull, dry skin. This peel can be applied for up to 15 minutes, depending on the client’s skin type and sensitivity.

On the other hand, our Professional 5-Berry Solution with 7% TCA is a layered peel that can be applied up to four times with 3 – 4 minutes between each layer. This peel is ideal for addressing hyperpigmentation and mild acne concerns and is self-neutralizing.

IMMEDIATE AFTERCARE

After removing the peel or after it self-neutralizes, follow up with hydrating and balancing serums, a moisturizer and broad-spectrum SPF.

POST-PEEL RECOVERY & MAINTENANCE

The chemical peel process doesn’t end once the treatment is complete—which is important to note when setting client expectations. Here's what clients can expect during the post-peel recovery phase:

• Days 1 – 3: Immediately following the peel, clients may experience some mild discomfort and tightness. Medium-depth peels can also cause light swelling. Instruct clients to not touch or pick at their skin and avoid sun exposure, exercise, exfoliation and water directly on their face.
• Days 4 – 7: During this phase, the skin may begin to peel or flake. Clients need to resist picking at their peeling skin as this can lead to scarring and other adverse reactions. Superficial peels should reveal brighter, smoother skin by day 6 or 7, while medium-depth peels can take up to 14 days for the skin to fully recover.

Week 2+: Ongoing maintenance is crucial to preserving the results of a chemical peel. Encourage clients to use products that contain hydrating and balancing ingredients like those found in Vitamin C Cleanser or Daily Repair Cream to prolong their radiant complexion. A high-quality broad-spectrum product like Moisturizing Protection Cream with SPF 30 is also essential to protect the skin from harmful UV rays, which can reverse results.

The chemical peel process is a highly effective way to improve skin texture, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, control acne and even out skin tone. By following best practices and utilizing quality products, you can confidently guide your clients toward achieving their skin goals. If you're still unsure about how to proceed, consider registering as a GlyMed Pro to gain access to our world-renowned educational resources. With knowledge comes confidence!